Ronda & The White Villages of Spain – 3 Day Itinerary

If you are planning a trip to Spain and the famous Andalucían cities of Granada or Seville, why not extend your Southern Spain itinerary to include one of Spain’s most scenic driving routes – Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (the Route of the White Villages).

A route so beautiful, it is also one of the most popular cycling and walking routes in Spain for multi-day self-guided walking holidays. 

Bright white villages cascade from ancient castles down mountains in the lush Andalucían countryside. Some emerge from beneath the rock face of the landscape; each has its unique characteristics and heritage.

The area settled in prehistoric times has an extraordinary heritage and shares some of the more intriguing aspects of Spain– Prehistoric cave paintings and towns that still have occupied cave dwellings, Moorish influences, fortified castles and magnificent Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque cathedrals. The area is also known for its typical and delicious gastronomy.

Visiting The White Villages

To do justice to the entire 19 Pueblos Blancos and the larger city of Ronda, no less than a week to visit, explore and most of all, enjoy them all would be ideal.

However, knowing many visitors to Andalucía may not have an entire week, we have put together a fantastic 3-day circular road trip from Seville. A 3-day itinerary takes in the Pueblos Blancos best without rushing. Six of the most beautiful and interesting white villages in the Cádiz region, each town an easy drive to the next.

The itinerary also allows for two nights in Ronda, the most popular and largest white village in Andalucía. While Ronda is technically one of the white villages, it is often left off the list of the 19 Pueblos Blancos due to its size compared to the surrounding villages. 

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Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos. 3 Day White Villages Itinerary

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Distances Between the White Villages of Southern Spain

DAY 1

Without having to leave too early, depart Seville in the morning to be in Arcos de la Frontera mid-morning. You will have enough time to explore and enjoy an early lunch sampling some of the local tapas dishes the town is well known for.

The next stop of Zahara de la Sierra also makes a delightful spot for lunch or even a progressive lunch as it is less than an hour along the route. It is hard to resist the local tapas dishes in each of the villages, so why not make the most of it with a mini tapas tour of the villages. 

In the afternoon, head further into the mountains to the village of  Grazalema to take in the stunning vistas and quaint mountain village vibe. Arrive in Ronda late afternoon in time to relax before the typically late Spanish dinner crowd begin to head out. 

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The beautiful narrow twists of steep streets typical of the region hold many historical landmarks, artisan boutiques and plenty of great restaurants to try the acclaimed regional cuisine.

Arcos de la Frontera is where you can appreciate Muslim, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque art. The town has one of the best examples of Andalucian fortified castles and some magnificent churches. One of the most impressive is the church of San Pedro with the ornate 18th-century baroque belfry built staggeringly close to the edge of the sheer cliff face.

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From the top of the village, you have a beautiful outlook over the blue-green waters of the Zahara-el Gastor reservoir, which makes it the perfect town at the height of the Spanish summer.

Zahara de la Sierra is famous for its fiesta of Corpus Christi around Easter time. The lively traditional religious festival has become a popular tourist attraction thanks to elaborate decorations placed all over the town.

Spring and early summer are also favourite times for hikers and nature lovers as the surrounding fields are in full bloom with wildflowers, and the weather is still mild.

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There are a lot of hiking and walking trails around Grazalema; just be aware that some require written permission to access. Check before setting off. You can find some information on the Sierra de Grazalema hiking trails here. 

From Grazalema, it is only a little over 40 min to Ronda. Arrive in time to relax before heading out to enjoy Ronda’s exciting restaurant scene. Remember, dinner in Spain always starts late. Don’t expect too many restaurants to open before 8.00 pm for dinner. 

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Everything about Ronda seems dramatic. From the dizzying heights at which the small city sits – on the edge of a cliff, to the Puente Nuevo, which straddles the 98-metre deep ravine of the El Tajo Gorge. The bridge finished in 1793, and took 42 years to build.

Ronda also lays claim to Spain’s second oldest bullring. Hemingway was so taken with the romance of Ronda and bullfighting, that he immortalised the town, the passion and drama of the sport in several novels.

The bullring, the largest sand circle in the world, is home to the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda. With a heritage going back to 1485, it is Spain’s oldest and most noble order of horsemanship.

Ronda is loaded with cultural treats beyond bullfighting and famous artists such as Hemingway, who were drawn to the romantic outlook of the town.

Ronda has a rich Moorish heritage – from the narrow whitewashed streets, the Moorish Mondragon palace with its museum and tranquil gardens to the 13th-century Arab Baths in Barrio de San Miguel, a design based on the bathhouse of the famous Alhambra. It is also the best-preserved Arab bath in Spain.

In spring and summer, Ronda comes alive with festivals. The traditional agricultural festival – the May Fair, the Feria de Pedro Romero in early September, which features folkloric shows, flamenco singing, and Goyaesque bullfighting. There is also the Roman Pilgrimage that reenacts a fiesta of ancient Rome.

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Enjoy the morning in Ronda before making the short drive to the fascinating village of Setenil de las Bodegas, only half an hour from Ronda.

After Setenil de las Bodegas, make your way to Olvera only 30 minutes further along the route. Olvera is an excellent place for a leisurely lunch before returning to Seville.

The town as it stands today has grown from the collection of cave dwellings. Many of the more modern residences are still hewn from rock. Rows of whitewashed shops, restaurants, and houses sit under the immense weight and shelter of the rocky overhang.

It is a charming and intriguing village to walk around. Enjoy lunch or a drink at one of the bars or restaurants that overlook the small river hiding beneath the shade of the great boulder. Or, drive to the top of the village for great views back across the town and countryside.

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As you approach, the two most prominent buildings catch your eye before you can even see the beautiful display of whitewash covering the hill. The neoclassical Encarnación Church and old Arab castle punctuate the skyline making up the classic view of Olvera.

The views of the surrounding mountains from the church and castle at the top of the town are breathtaking. Olvera is a delightful stop for lunch before returning to Seville.

Olvera town runs down the hill leading away from the church and the castle so expect an uphill climb as soon as you arrive. While it may be tempting to drive straight to the top of the town, parking can be problematic in the historic centre, especially in the peak summer months.

Navigating the series of tight, mostly one way streets may be challenging for some. If in doubt, park down at the bottom and walk up to the town hall square; it will be worth it.

From Olvera, it is less than 100km back to Seville. You can make a few other white village detours if you have the time, as shown on the map below. 

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